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SEXING & CAPTIVE BREEDING

Sexual maturity in diamondback terrapins is dependent upon size and not age.  Males reach maturity at around 4" scl while females can be sexually mature as early as 6" scl.  Hence, captive bred male diamondbacks can be sexually mature as early as 1.5 years and females at 3.  However, growth rates in wild diamondback populations are much slower and usually take twice the amount of time for wild individuals to become sexually mature.


Here are some hints to sexing diamondbacks:
1) Length of the tail - males tend to have a larger and longer base to their tails.  Their cloacal opening is further from the base than females'.  Overall, a male's tail is about 1.25x longer than a similarly sized female's.  Females have only a short base to their tails which tapers down in a skinny, almost concave manner.
2) Height of shell - males tend to have flatter shells than females

3) Females typically have more broad and generally larger heads than males do. This difference is typically able to be noticed in juveniles around 12-18 months of age depending on how quickly they have matured.

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While there are stories of some breeders around the world who have success breeding their terrapins year-round, this is typically not the case. Most breeders follow a similar brumation schedule as wild terrapins would by controlling the environments in which the animals live and abbreviating the extremes on either end of the hot and cold spectrum. Brumation is a natural cycle that all wild terrapins go through every year as the seasons change. Much like a grizzly bear hibernates during the winter months, terrapins similarly hunker down and sleep through the cooler seasons. While it isn't known exactly what this does for the animals, it is speculated that it has a way of somewhat "resetting" the females' reproductive cycle. One thing is for sure, after a few months of cooler temperatures and sleeping terrapins, as soon as the temps begin to rise up, there is always a noticeable increase in breeding activity.

 

From the male terrapin's perspective, breeding season is all the time. Even in the cooler months, it isn't uncommon to find a male attempting to mount a female if they are kept in the same enclosure. The same isn't usually true for the female terrapins. They are often "not in the mood" and will even become aggressive towards the pestering males at times. Sometimes I wonder if the females simply get "worn-down" by the males' constant attempts and finally give in to them, but I haven't gotten any of them to open up and talk to me about that quite yet. 

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Once the males have had their chance to mate with the females and when the environmental conditions are right, it will take a female roughly three weeks to develop her first clutch. If the terrapin gods have multiple clutches in store for her, each additional clutch will take roughly 2 weeks to develop.

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During the breeding season, I typically check my females for eggs twice per week. I do this by palpation and by checking their weights. Palpation of a female terrapin is done by GENTLY sliding a finger in front of their hind legs on both sides and feeling into their abdomen. If she has eggs developing, they are easy to feel. Don't attempt to count them if you are palpating. Simply note that there are eggs and begin to prepare for her to nest. 

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Once a gravid female is nice and plump with eggs, you will usually begin to notice her behavior change when she is getting closer to nesting. Gravid females will swim franticly in their enclosure. In the wild, they do the same thing, but we don't notice as easily since they are out in the open waters. It is easy to assume that the frantic swimming of a gravid female is just her "freaking out" because she is about to lay eggs and she is possibly scared or distressed. While she might be uncomfortable, the motion of their hind legs actually helps them to move the eggs into position for laying. 

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As long as she is provided with adequate nesting areas, when the time is right, she will come out of the water and "nose" around in the substrate as she looks for the perfect place to dig her nest. When doing this, she is checking for the temperature and the moisture of the substrate. Once she is happy with a location, she will begin to dig her nest with her front legs and then turn around and complete the dig with her hind legs. It isn't uncommon for a female to dig a few "test holes" before she is happy with a location. 

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When she is finally digging her nest, it's pretty impressive to watch a female cradle each egg and gently lay them down into the hole with her feet. While there have definitely been some eggs that fall and break open, most of the time, they are gently laid into the nest and then packed tight with sand when she is all done. 

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Whether a breeder digs up the nesting box daily to check for eggs or has motion-detecting cameras on the nesting areas, those eggs will almost always need to be dug up and moved to an incubator to ensure proper development. 

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Terrapin eggs take roughly 60 days to incubate. That number varies a little bit depending on what temperature the eggs are incubated at. 85-87F produces all females and usually hatches between 45-55 days, 79-81F produces all males and generally takes 60 days +, and anything in-between produces a mix of males and females and will take anywhere from 50-60 days. While temperature is very important during incubation, humidity is equally as important. Using a substrate which can hold ample amounts of water without being too saturated is key. I use Hatch-Rite as a substrate and I make sure it is saturated prior to the incubation of any terrapin eggs.

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  • I'm new. What's a Diamondback Terrapin?
    Diamondback Terrapins (DBTs) are only the coolest, most diverse, and most personable species of aquatic turtle in the world. DBTs are also the only aquatic turtle species in the world that lives exclusively in brackish waters. They are native to the U.S., ranging from the coasts of Texas to Florida in the Gulf of Mexico, and up the Atlantic coast to Massachusetts.
  • Why TSE?
    There are a lot of great DBT breeders out there who produce some amazing animals. At TSE, I try to offer a wide variety of interesting line-bred animals, genetic morphs, and desireable traits by focusing on specific breeding projects. This means that some projects can take years to come to fruition, but in the end they should produce animals that are truly unique.
  • How on earth do you ship a turtle?!
    Great question! After your purchase is completed, I will reach out to you to confirm the best available shipping date. Once a suitable date is agreed upon, I will plan to ship out your new little terrapin via FedEx Overnight Delivery. All terrapins are shipped in insulated boxes and if the temperature is hot enough or cold enough, a phase 22 CryoPak or a 72 hour mild heat pack may be used as well. Please note that if the temperatures are too hot or too cold, or if a shipping date falls on a holiday, busy shipping week, or if there is anything which could possibly delay your terrapin from reaching you while in transit, I can and will delay the shipment until a safer date is available. The safety of your terrapin will always be most important.
  • What will I need before I purchase my first terrapin?
    Remember that although they may be small when you get them, your new terrapin won't stay that way for long. Planning ahead will not only save you from the headaches of frequently upgrading enclosures, filters, and lighting, but it can also save you money in the end as well. The basics of what you will need to adequately care for your new terrapin are as follows: - An aquatic enclosure: Aquarium, plastic tub, or a livestock tub will all work perfectly fine. - Water filter: There are many options in this category, but my recommendation is to over-filter as much as possible. Terrapins require clean water to thrive. If you are purchasing a young terrapin, be careful that the water intake or output aren't too strong for the little one. - Lighting: Young terrapins won't require basking areas until their shells begin to harden around 6-12 months old, but they will need UVB lighting before then. UVB providing LED lights or fluorescent lights are a great option for young terrapins. Once their shells harden, you can introduce 50w halogen lights alongside the UVB source. - Aquarium water heater: Young terrapins (1-6 months old) do best in water between 81-84F, juveniles do well in water between 78-80F, and adults do well in water between 76-79F. Having a safe water heater (or two as a precaution) is essential when keeping terrapins. - Floating Plastic Plants/Basking Docks/Land Area: Young terrapins enjoy resting on the floating plastic plants in their enclosures. Juveniles and sub-adults will bask on logs or basking docks for hours during the day, and adult females will require a land area for them to lay their eggs.
  • What should I feed my terrapin?
    What you should feed your terrapin depends on what life stage it is in. Hatchlings: ZooMed Hatchling Formula, Bloodworms, and Freeze Dried Shrimp Juveniles: Omega One Juvenile Pellets and Mazuri Aquatic Turtle Diet Sub-Adults/Adults: Omega One Floating Turtle Sticks, Mazuri Aquatic Turtle Diet, and Mazuri Small Crocodilian Pellets You can also occasionally offer frozen/thawed or fresh seafood like smelt or shrimp.
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TSE

801 W. CHESTNUT ST. 

BLOOMINGTON, IL 61701

309.838.5939

terrapinstationexotics@gmail.com

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